Photo: GettyCritics have mostly been vociferous and rather merciless in skewering Kanye West’s debut collection, though he has found support in the form of Anna dello Russo, who wore one of his dresses, and Carine Roitfeld, who has been fairly gentle with him. He can now add the Independent‘s Susannah Frankel to the short list of supporters. Frankel argues that we should all give Kanye a chance. In her article she claims that if Kate Moss and Victoria Beckham have been given chances by the industry, then he should get the same consideration. As for his credentials? Sitting front row at shows for many years and doing collabs with Louis Vuitton and Hermés should be plenty of experience for launching your own RTW womenswear line.
She also sort of skewers Victoria Beckham, writing, “VB’s faux ‘I know I’m not really a designer but I’m learning’ humility, meanwhile, is an affront to the intelligence of all those whose job it is to comment on fashion.” (Kanye essentially said the same thing as VB, didn’t he? He just used the word “fuck” a lot more.) The difference is that Beckham’s collections have generally been well-received by critics since the beginning–everyone assumed she would fail, but she surprised everyone. She also started with a very small collection of dresses, shown in a quiet presentation format, and has grown from there, unlike Kanye, who pretty much announced that he was going to change the face of fashion.
The next point Frankel makes is that though his taste level was deemed questionable, so is Balmain’s. She thought the over-the-top presentation was entertaining, with shades of Tom Ford circa 1998.
We think the industry will give Kanye another chance. One more. If he doesn’t plan better and pull together a more cohesive and well-made collection, he’s going to be written off and relegated to doing Kardashian-style collaborations.
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PARIS–Every fashion season a few things are guaranteed: a model will fall, Anna Dello Russo will change outfits approximately 647,329 times, and a rumor will circulate that Stefano Pilati is out at YSL. This season was no exception. After the IHT’s Suzy Menkes implied in an article that Jil Sander designer Raf Simons might someday be headed for YSL, Twitter and then the blogosphere (yep, that’s us) buzzed with news that Simons was taking Pilati’s place at YSL. YSL subsequently (this is old hat to them now) issued a statement disclaiming the the report. 
But the thing that everyone was gushing about immediately following the show was the shoes. And with good reason because they were awesome. Especially the courtly heeled loafers with oversized golden buckles and the mint-colored platforms with golden caps on the toes. Expect to see them on every editor, and perhaps attendee Alexa Chung (the loafers for sure), come spring.
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The highly-anticipated (we think?) Muppets X Opening Ceremony collection is now available at Opening Ceremony stores and online. There are no faux fur coats or feather boas and the collection is actually quite simple and casual, which we like. It’s also pretty affordable, which we like even more. It’s comprised of an assortment of tees, sweatshirts, button-downs and sweaters featuring your favorite Muppets like you’ve never seen them before. Kermit, Miss Piggy, Animal, Fozzie and Gonzo are all credited as wearing Opening Ceremony FW 11. It’s kind of amazing.
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Photo: WireImage
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Michael Kors went on safari for spring. He called his collection “Afriluxe” which made me cringe a little since much of Africa is decidedly not luxurious. Beautiful, yes, but luxurious? No. The parts that are luxurious are more often than not available only to rich tourists and a very small sliver of the population. Kors said in his line sheets he was inspired by the “rustic modernism of the Lebombo Lodge,” which the Times‘ Eric Wilson notes is $1,500 per night, per person. 
In a departure from last year’s outer galaxy runway show, Jen Kao was firmly on planet earth–more specifically, Hawaii–for her spring 2012 collection. It was nice to see the esoteric designer lightening up a little bit, too. Well, sort of.