2011年9月13日火曜日

Honor Spring 2012: Breathtaking Beauty Via Catherine Deneuve and Jellyfish

As soon as Giovanna Randall’s first look walked out, it was all over. We were enamored.

Several small fans were stationed at the start of the runway, and as Solomon Burke’s “Cry to Me” (which you may recognize from a very memorable Dirty Dancing scene) began to play, they created an intentional Marilyn Monroe moment with the first look: a paisley silk organza cupcake dress, but without the coyness. The model just stood their for a second, letting it happen. It took our breath away, inspired the audience to applaud and set the tone for the rest of the show: unadulterated gorgeousness via sweet ‘60s glamour with a sense of humor. Apparently, someone cried at Honor’s first show and while that sounds like a rather extreme reaction to clothes, we totally get it now.

The clothes were so precious, delicate and beautiful, it was hard to believe they were real. A music switch to “Hey Boy” by The Blow and the introduction of modern touches like metal collars and patent leather oxfords and loafers, brought everything back to our level. The collection was all about lace, silk organza, sheer cut-outs and more lace in classic silhouettes like the aformentioned cupcake dresses, a few column gowns, a few pencil skirts and lots of shorts. However, the collection was not without inventiveness: several looks featured an “absent collar”: the shape of the collar cut out from the dress. It looked awesome. Also bizarre in theory but gorgeous in execution: loose knee-high lace sock type things. Apparently, there is just no such thing as too much lace in Honor’s world.

After the show, Giovanna Randall told us about the inspiration, which ranged from Catherine Deneuve (not Marilyn Monroe) to sea creatures. “I had a picture of Catherine Deneuve on her wedding day where she wasn’t putting her hands down and she wore a short dress and you could see her underwear and I just thought it was so cool that she just was like, whatever, but I was initially inspired by jellyfish and I was like, ‘this is jelly fish!’” This sounded insane at the time, but now we sort of see it in the way the skirts move and the sheer layers of fabric and rounded shapes.

She was also inspired by the idea of blending in with furniture–something that came to mind while renovating her apartment. “I started to think: when do I end and when does my stuff begin? And it was a little bit about that, like blending in with the wallpaper and blending in with stuff and trying to find the balance.”

Despite the ‘60s vibe we got from the pastel cupcake dresses, skirt suits and long silk nightgown-esque confections, Giovanna insists she doesn’t look to a specific decade when designing. “I tend not to try to make it look like any particular decade, I just do what feels right.” We think she should continue doing that–and working with stylist/Lula editor Leith Clark, who styled the show perfectly.

Front row notables included Malin Ackermann and Solange Knowles, with whom we gushed over the collection later that day. Last year’s show drew Alexa Chung, who we could totally see in any of this season’s girly looks. When after only a couple of seasons, you have stylish people like this showing support, a store in the meatpacking district, and what I think will be one of this week’s most unforgettable shows, you’re clearly doing something right. We can’t wait to see what she comes up with next. Click through for all the beautiful looks.


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