Hervé Léger by Max Azria Spring 2012: Masters the Formula

Before we even got inside the tents we knew we were at a Hervé Léger show from the bevy of ladies sporting the label’s signature skintight dresses–probably not the most appropriate attire in the daytime, but then again, it’s hard to tell during Fashion Week. Actually, we’ve never seen more Hervé Léger dresses in the daytime before since…well, ever.

But there’s a reason so many attendees (non-industry, it should be said) showed up wearing the label’s duds–something, much more rare than say, at a Proenza Schouler show. Hervé Léger has stumbled on a formula that works, or should we say, a formula that sells–and the label, designed by Max and Lubov Azria, has never strayed far from it, producing season after season of skintight bandage dresses.

Along those lines, Spring 2012 saw the addition of bondage-inspired details, laced-up cutouts, and subtle ikat prints. While the collection may have been otherwise formulaic, the gold and silver frocks, with their body-hugging silhouettes and sleek cutouts will no doubt be a hit on the red carpet. And, as the Fashion Week crowd proved–as well as the woman sitting next to me, who appeared to be on the verge of tears and began clapping at random moments during the show, saying “He really knows the body!”–his dresses will continue to be a hit amongst regular consumers, looking for their own red carpet moment.

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