2011年10月6日木曜日

Junya Watanabe Spring 2012: A Rare Romanticism


Long Nguyen is the Co-Founder/Style Director of Flaunt.

PARIS–Over the sounds of Argentinian music evoking the atmosphere of a morning in the Gaucho plains, Junya Watanabe sent out a stunning collection of romantic and emotional clothes early Saturday morning. The show started with deep colored lace transparent dresses with black spaghetti strap slips and ended with the most elegant transformation of the trench coat seen on any runway.

But if there were any references to Argentina and its southern mythical plains so romanticized in literature, it was just the coming and going of the Spanish vocals on the soundtrack throughout the show, rather than any literal translation in the clothes. There was a sensuality in the opening series of lace dresses–green and rose florals and a blue embroidered large leaf pattern–that is rarely seen from Mr. Watanabe. His talents for innovative fabrics and renovating classical garments often leave human emotion out of his shows, but not this time. The feather headdresses by Kamo heightened the simple elegance of the textured work on the lace.

Midway through the show came a blue and red leather cropped bolero jacket with layered ruffle short sleeves and a navy trench, as the designer introduced elements of outerwear. The red and light purple lace dress with a black single-breasted trench was superb. So were the next series of coats: a cape coat, an open sleeve dress coat, and a sleeveless coat with attached cape sleeves.

If the rhythm of this emotional show on occasion seemed slightly repetitive, it may be intentional rather than haphazard. That is because the designer slowly introduced outerwear into the show, one piece at a time over the base layers of lace double dresses. These outerwear pieces will surely be a commercial success for the designer.

**All photos via Imaxtree


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